HOW well did you celebrate St Patrick this year?
As the dust settles on another March 17, now seems as good a time as any to ask the question.
Last week saw festivals, parades and cultural events galore take place across the globe as Irish communities far and wide paid homage to their patron saint in the best of style.
But there is way more to St Patrick than the parties that mark the day of his death.
If you are in search of something extra special in terms of celebrating the man himself - and if you like a little adventure too - well let me introduce you to St Patrick’s Way.
Spread across counties Armagh and Down in Northern Ireland, this 82-mile signed walking trail passes through the key sites relating to St Patrick and boasts some of the most stunning scenery you will see in all of Ireland as you make your way through it.
There are stunning views to be enjoyed throughout the St Patrick's Way walkWhat’s more, it’s a walk - or for some a pilgrimage, but you don’t have to simply walk it.
No, this is Ireland, which is rugged and outdoorsy by its mere nature, so there are plenty of activities to indulge in while you tackle the route.
From mountain-hiking, to canoeing and cycling, there are all manner of fun and exhilarating ways in which to traverse the land where St Patrick is celebrated and honoured every day of the year, not just on March 17.
First launched in 2015, the walk is currently celebrating its 10th anniversary, and it was with this in mind that I took up the opportunity to join a tour group and get a taste of the action myself.
It is the brainchild of the late Alan Graham, who was inspired to create it while hiking the Camino de Santiago trail – the infamous pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela which is where the remains of St James, the patron saint of Spain, are said to lie.
Prior to his death, Mr Graham explained that he felt it only right to chart a similar path in Ireland which marked the life, landscape and legacy of its own patron saint.
Down Cathedral in Downpatrick is where you will find St Patrick's grave (Pic: Fiona Audley)And it was the achievements of Irish explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, the Co. Kildare native who led three British expeditions to the Antarctic in the early 1900s, which sparked the idea more specifically.
“After I read the exploits of the famous Irish explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton on his adventures in the Antarctic, the words that had a big impression on me, were how Shackleton described his inner feelings, that he was not alone, he knew there was another invisible force encouraging him to save his men,” Mr Graham explained.
“When I was walking the Camino de Santiago I was lying in my bunk wide awake due to the noise of my fellow pilgrims and it came to me as if from that voice that Shackleton heard, why not develop a pilgrimage route for Saint Patrick,” he added,
“I thought Saint Patrick should be honoured with a pilgrim route in his name. I asked many pilgrims en route and they encouraged me to pursue the project.
“When I got home, I started to plan the route of the pilgrimage.”
Mr Graham went away and meticulously planned a route that takes the walker – or pilgrim, should they wish to be described as such - from the starting point in Co. Armagh, where St Patrick began his mission to bring Christianity to the nation, to the site where he is said to be buried, in Downpatrick, Co. Down.
St Patrick's grave is located, unassumingly, outside Down Cathedral (Pic: Fiona Audley)And there is so much to enjoy and savour in between.
This is a route which takes you to the place where Patrick would have first come ashore from Britain, to where he established Ireland’s first Christian Church and to the tallest statue of the saint found anywhere in the world.
And with every step, cycle or paddle you are flanked by fascinating history, vivid vistas and colourful landscapes.
It has proven a huge success since its launch, and it’s easy to see why.
As a trip it offers something for everyone, of all ages, and you really don’t have to be religious to enjoy it.
But holy or not, if you take up this challenge, and complete this walk, you will undoubtedly feel more connected to St Patrick than you ever have before.
It’s impossible not to be struck by the impact he has had on your surroundings while in Northern Ireland, where roads, centres, churches and children are all regularly named after him.
There is a lot of information to take in while you traverse this route, but there are moments along the way for personal reflection too, and at times just silence, or mindfulness, as I think we call that now.
Canoe is the only way to travel when visiting Inch Abbey (Pic: Fiona Audley)But let’s not forget the fun. During my four-day trip I hiked, cycled and canoed too.
Now that is the way to truly experience Ireland, out there in the beauty of your natural surroundings, with the wind in your face and your raincoat to hand, just in case.
There is an added bonus too, as the St Patrick’s Way route comes with its very own passport.
Mr Graham charted the walk into ten separate sections, and each comes with a specific passport stamp to achieve once completed. Now who doesn’t like those?
I was delighted to have managed to get every stamp during my visit – which took me through Armagh, Banbridge, Newry, Rostrevor, Newcastle and Downpatrick.
There are passport stamping opportunities at ten stops on the St Patrick's Way (Pic: John Kernaghan)I am now the proud owner of a completed St Patrick’s Way Pilgrim’s Passport.
The only question is, how long will it be before I can go back and get myself another one?
Saint Patrick’s Way – the highlights:
Navan Fort
Prepare for your mind to be blown at Navan Fort, which is known in Irish as Emain Macha, named after the Celtic goddess, Macha.
It’s called a fort, but it is actually a mound, and there is so much history here, in an area that is rich in buried remains, early settlement sites and sacred places.
Prepare for a history lesson like none you have ever known at Navan Fort (Pic: Fiona Audley)It is the ancient seat of the kings of Ulster and earliest capital of Ulster and when you get to the top it offers simply stunning views from all angles.
The hill is said to have been given to St Patrick after he healed a local chieftain, named Daire.
Deemed an ancient centre of Celtic spirituality, Emain Macha is thought to have been an important location for Patrick in his crusade to convert the Irish to Christianity, as he attempted to connect locals to his new religion via the ancient site.
As one of Ireland’s most famous and important archaeological sites, a bid is currently underway to secure UNESCO World Heritage status for Navan Fort.
Armagh City
From Navan Fort to the equally historic Armagh city, where our uber-knowledgeable tour guide Donna Fox provided a wealth of insight and information on a walking tour of the city.
St Patrick established Armagh, or Ard Macha in Irish - a nod once again to that well-respected goddess, as a great seat of Christianity and the city grew around the church he founded there.
With elegant Georgian architecture at every turn and fascinating religious heritage, the city is also super-friendly, welcoming and full of great bars, restaurants and shops.
There is plenty to keep you busy in beautiful Armagh (Pic: Fiona Audley)After an afternoon exploring the impressive Saint Patrick’s Church Of Ireland Cathedral and Saint Patrick’s Roman Catholic Cathedral, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Market Street’s Uluru restaurant followed by a rousing traditional Irish music session at Red Ned’s bar in Ogle street.
Top tip for anyone visiting - take the opportunity to follow the Angels and Gargoyles Trail.
Can you find all the Angels and Gargoyles hidden in Armagh city? (Pic: Fiona Audley)This is the city’s smallest public art installation which features twenty-two miniature bronze sculptures hidden in all kinds of curious places amongst the city’s historic buildings, architecture and streets.
The award-winning sculptures were designed by German-born sculptor Holger Christian Lonze, whose studio is located in west Cork.
Scarva to Newry bike ride
It was time to get on our bikes for the journey from Scarva to Newry.
This section of St Patrick’s Way takes you via Newry Canal towpath, on mainly flat waterside paths, to the historic city of Newry.
Take time to enjoy the view on the Scarva to Newry bike ride (Pic: Fiona Audley)So, you can walk it, but it is way more fun to cycle, and there are firms such as the excellent Bike Mourne who will get you kitted out and provide you with a tour guide too.
Be prepared to soak up the beautiful scenery as you make your way along what is the oldest summit level canal in all of Britain and Ireland.
First opened in 1742, connecting Portadown and Newry, the canal once had 14 lock gates.
Tollymore Forest Park
Hiking enthusiasts will love the section of St Patrick’s Way, which takes you through Tollymore Forest Park in Newcastle, Co. Down.
Now Newcastle is a holiday worthy location alone – with its pristine beach, welcoming promenade and awesome views of the beautiful Mourne Mountains.
But you will also find a satisfying walk through nearby Tollymore Forest Park is the perfect way to spend an afternoon.
The hermitage at Tollymore Forest Park is way more inviting than it sounds (Pic: Fiona Audley)And you don’t have to do it alone, there are guides willing to take you there and give you the full lowdown on the heritage of the site – and its connections to St Patrick – as you stroll through it.
Our guides were the particularly knowledgeable former trainee nuns Martina Purdy and Elaine Kelly.
The pair worked as a BBC political correspondent and barrister, respectively, before joining the Sisters of the Adoration order in 2014.
However, in 2019 they were forced to leave the Belfast convent when it closed due to falling numbers.
Since then, they have dedicated their time to sharing their impressive knowledge of St Patrick’s mission, legacy and his journey in Ireland as tour guides.
Tour guides Martina Purdy and Elaine Kelly will have all your questions answered (Pic: Fiona Audley)It felt fitting to hear their tales of Patrick’s connections to Ireland, where he is said to have first been brought from Britain as a slave before later returning to preach the word of Christianity, while surrounded by ancient trees and a bubbling river.
There is even a hermitage, a site for reflection, nestled into the forest.
It was built into the riverbank in 1777 by the family who used to own the site, and it is far prettier and more inviting than it sounds.
The forest’s location at the foot of the Mourne Mountains also puts you in the perfect viewing spot for the mighty Slieve Donard, the highest mountain in Northern Ireland.
Downpatrick
Our time collecting passport stamps came to its natural end in Downpatrick, Co. Down.
But the trip was not going out without a bang.
Our first stop was The St Patrick Centre, a bustling site which comprises a fascinating exhibition on all things Patrick, as well as a busy tea-room and extensive gift shop.
We could have easily to spent more time here, but there was still much to explore in the town.
Downpatrick is seen as the place in Northern Ireland where St Patrick’s story begins and ends.
He is said to have brought his boat ashore at Lecale on the nearby Strangford Lough when he returned to Ireland to preach the word of God.
The impressive stained glass windown in Down Cathedral is not to be missed (Pic: Fiona Audley)He is also buried here.
St Patrick’s grave is located just outside Down Cathedral. It is not sectioned off, it sits there unassumingly and is accessible to all, year-round.
Guides Elaine and Martina confirm that this is also the site of the remains of the Irish saints St Brigid and St Colmcille.
They are, apparently, all in there together, although there is no sign marking this.
It is a nice thought, however, that these three lie there, in good company, for eternity.
Inch Abbey
There are other sites nearby in Downpatrick that are as beautiful as they are historic.
Our visit to the ancient Inch Abbey required a short hike and a leisurely canoe trip along the beautiful Quoile River.
This is an experience not to be missed if you are in the area, as arriving at the Abbey is truly like stepping back in time.
The ruins of Inch Abbey offer a perfect spot for personal reflection (Pic: Fiona Audley)The mystical remains of the monastic site conjure up images of monks going about their daily life on this picturesque little piece of land which was once an island.
Here is a place for true reflection and the tour provides time for that, with our guides encouraging us to take in the surroundings at our own pace and marvel at the architectural abilities of those who came so many years before us.
Slieve Patrick and Saul Church
You can’t leave St Patrick’s country without getting up close and personal with the tallest statue of the man himself to be found anywhere in the world.
Slieve Patrick – or Saul’s holy mountain – is home to this grand sculpture which was built in 1932 to commemorate the anniversary of Patrick’s landing in nearby Lecale.
The statue of St Patrick on Slieve Partick is well worth the uphill walk (Pics: Fiona Audley)Made of Mourne granite, the statue was carved with the robes of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Armagh but, in order to represent both the Catholic and Church of Ireland faiths, the face used for Patrick was that of the Protestant Archbishop of Armagh.
The path leading to the summit is flanked by crosses, and once you reach the top you are rewarded with breathtaking views of Strangford and the Mourne Mountains.
You also get a view of nearby Saul Church, which is said to be the first church ever erected in Ireland after Patrick landed in the area in 432 AD.
This was also a poignant stop on our itinerary.
Originally made of wood, this church has been rebuilt many times but most recently in 1932 to celebrate the 1500th anniversary of its foundation.
Saul Church is the site of the very first Christian Church in Ireland (Pic: Fiona Audley)The story goes that when St Patrick came to Ireland strong currents led his boat to land in Lecale.
There he quickly converted the High King’s brother, Dichu, who in return gave him a barn, or Sabhall in Gaelic, from which the name Saul derives.
This barn became the very first church in all of Ireland, and it is also said to be the place where St Patrick returned to die on March 17, 461 AD.
That date would later become known as St Patrick's Day, which, as we well know, continues to be celebrated across the globe.
Don't forget your St Patrick's Way passport (Pic: Fiona Audley)Where to stay:
If you are taking on St Patrick’s Way it will take time, from six to ten days if you go straight through or you may want to complete in sections at difference times.
Either way you will need to book accommodation along the way. You can go no wrong with...
Avoca Hotel, Newcastle
Where to eat:
No good explorer can work on an empty stomach. Check out these top spots for hungry hikers..
Uluru Bar and Grill, Armagh
Blackwell House, Scarva
Great Jones Craft Kitchen, Newcastle
Take a tour:
To get the best of the St Patrick’s Way join a tour or book a guide. Then you can enjoy the views and soak up the information without worrying about what direction to head next and where to find the nearest rest stop.
You will be well looked after by Donna Fox Tours
Adventure calls:
St Patrick’s Way is all about adventure, book the following to ensure your slice of the action:
The St Patrick's Centre in Downpatrick organised our canoe/walk experience and the tours with guides Martina and Elaine. You can book the Downpatrick Camino here but they organise private group experiences too.
Get on your bike with Bike Mourne
And get on the water with the Canoe Camino offered by Mobile Team Adventure
Further information about the St Patrick's Way walk can be found here.
For more inspiration on visiting Northern Ireland click here.
