YOU don’t have to ski to enjoy a ski holiday.
There’s plenty to experience, both on and off-piste, without the need for a ski, a board or a pole - particularly when you head for a powder-based break at the picturesque ski terrain that is Avoriaz, in the Portes du Soleil region of eastern France.
It’s clear that this somewhat hidden snowy utopia, located in the French Alps but not far from the border with Switzerland, is a veritable playground for all snow sports - with skiing and snowboarding being its star attraction.
Admittedly skiers of all abilities flock here to tackle its coveted slopes - which reach across the Portes du Soleil ski area, connecting with the runs at nearby Morzine and across a number of French and Swiss villages along the way.
But it also boasts a compendium of activities for those giving the slopes a swerve but desperately seeking something else too.
And I was one of those people during this trip.
Being unable to take to the slopes for medical reasons our planned four night stay in Au Coin Du Feu - nestled in the Prodains valley, 700 metres below the historic Avoriaz ski resort - at the charmingly welcoming Chilly Powder resort, was to prove more of an exploration and adventure than I had ever imagined upon booking.
My husband – a skier since his youth – would be taking to the slopes on a daily basis. I would be finding other ways to entertain myself.
Luckily the staff at Chilly Powder – a homely enclave of three luxury chalets located minutes away from the recently refurbished Prodains Express cable car, which delivers you to the magical Avoriaz resort above you in mere moments, were on hand to ensure we both got the most out of our stay.
From our arrival, where we were greeted with tea and cakes, a daily chalet event which takes place at 4pm – welcoming weary resident skiers back home from the pristine slopes, the uber helpful team of staff were on hand to provide all the info one needs to get the best out of their time at Chilly Powder, Avoriaz and the larger but less exclusive resort of Morzine, which is nearby.
So later, while the other half was fitted for his boots, I set about self-scheduling my few days in the snow.
By 7.30pm we were in the chalet bar sipping drinks and enjoying canapés while awaiting our evening meal – cooked by the impressive chalet chef and eaten at a communal table with Chilly Powder owners Francesca and Paul Eyre and our fellow guests.
Just like the afternoon before it, that first night proved invaluable for our stay – as our leisurely chats with guests, staff and owners provided a raft of further local info and insider knowledge that only added to the list of activities we hoped to tackle while in the region.
It also revealed that Chilly Powder founder Francesca Eyre is an Irish woman - whose mother was born in the south but moved to Britain, where she had her family, before bringing them back to Ireland where she retired.
That said Francesca has now spent more time in the Morzine region than anywhere else in her life, having ventured on a working ski holiday there at the age of 22 and choosing to stay.
In 1997 her vision for a luxury chalet offering was realised when she and her quantity surveyor husband Paul, a relocated Brit who she met while in the area, launched the first of the three Chilly Powder chalets.
Their inspiration, hard work and determination is evident throughout the chalet complex, which is set up entirely with the guests in mind – and their children, should they have them.
Of course the only thing they can’t guarantee is the weather, although the following morning we were welcomed to breakfast by a canvas of pure white snow, sparkling through the extensively windowed dining room.
While the skiers praised the weather gods for the ‘fresh powder’ and left their half-eaten fry ups to gather their boots and backpacks, I enjoyed a second cup of tea before heading out to the slope myself.
With the ski lift so close to the Chilly Powder front door, there really is no rush to get out at the crack of dawn to beat the queues so often associated with the busiest European ski resorts.
In fact so relaxed is the vibe around the Au Coin Du Feu area, that it is a prime spot for families taking ski trips with children of all ages - particularly any seeking last minute Easter trips this year, with the slopes open until later this month.
The ski lift I grab features plenty of excited young faces - framed with woolly hats and miniature shades – ready for the day of skiing, or ski lessons, ahead.
My day, however, kicks off with a tour of the Avoriaz resort on foot, offering breath-taking panoramas and photographic opportunities aplenty.
Somehow those travels led me to a spa, which proved the perfect antidote to the chill that was settling upon my face and hands - despite my thermal gloves!
Once my sauna and steam duties were taken in hand I pulled my multi-layer ensemble back on and hitched myself a ride on a horse-drawn sledge to Avoriaz’s bustling centre - which boasted a mid-slope strip of restaurants, bars, gift shops and hotels already buzzing with people enjoying warming nips of something strong, après ski beers and a tempting selection of local morsels.
I plotted up in the heated area of an outdoor bar, where my husband skied in to join me for our lunch date shortly after - and nearly on time.
That long and leisurely affair brought our afternoon to an appropriate close and prompted us to head back to the chalet for a relaxing dip in the hot tub before it was time to think about dinner.
We had started as we would go on, with a relaxed attitude that accompanied us throughout our brief break, and so my second day of activities took on a little more of the pampering theme.
Enjoying a late morning, with a light chalet breakfast and an hour or so spent reading in the Chilly Powder chalet’s quaint library area, my return to the heights of Avoriaz was with one destination in mind.
I headed for the Aquariaz – an indoor water park located bang in the middle of the busiest of Avoriaz’s slopes which offers the perfect view of the snow laden mountains and the layered up skiers upon them from the comfort of a deckchair, in a bikini, with a cool drink.
There the hours were easily wiled away in the restorative waters of the whirlpool, while the tempo could be quickly notched back up with a spin on an inflatable doughnut in the half water pipe – which kept swimmers of all ages entertained throughout my time at the leisure centre.
And what better to wrap up an afternoon of such relaxation than with a massage - courtesy of the resident Chilly Powder masseuse in the comfort of our chalet home.
A second day of “super snow” meant the husband was suitably pleased with his own efforts for that day, so when we relocated one another in the late afternoon we decided that we would try something a little different for our third and final day in the Morzine region.
Snow-shoeing was the desired choice for the following morning, which saw us join a group of holidaymakers – also not exclusively in Morzine for skiing or snowboarding opportunities – on a half day adventure in the mountains, with a knowledgeable guide from the local ESF ski school operators, and his snow-loving dog.
The four hour expedition took us up a mountain, around a lake and through dense forest, all doused in metres high snow.
It was exhilarating, offering a totally new perspective on snow-based activities in a ski region, if nerve-wracking at times.
Ultimately it proved a fascinating way to get to grips with the local terrain - and the snow – and a worthy alternative to a day on skis! As even my husband agreed.
So with limited time and lots to choose from, we found our mini Alpine adventure became an enlightening exploration of all things snowy in and around our Chilly Powder base – with plenty of memories to take home but many more reasons to go back and tick a few more boxes off the to do list.
Where to Stay:
Chilly Powder operates all year round offering extensive winter holiday packages for individuals, groups and families looking to hit the slopes and experience the vast ski terrain of the Portes du Soleil region. Winter prices start from £715 per week based for two adults sharing a standard bedroom or £1,985 per week for two adults and two children sharing a standard family bedroom. Prices are based on a half board basis with wine included in the evening meals. Child care facilities are also available with prices starting at £260 per week. The chalet also run a summer program and are available for weddings and events. To book contact Chilly Powder on 020 7289 6958 or click here
Lessons:
The Avoriaz Alpine Ski School offers lessons, courses, tours and park and pipe sessions from its base on the Avoriaz Plateau. For more information click here
Ski Hire:
Rental equipment can be hired and fitted at your chalet by the friendly team at Doorstep Skis
Appy Days:
Chilly Powder have their very own smart phone app which combines a number of extremely useful features for guests. As well as details of recommended restaurants in the local area, the app also includes a piste map, weather forecast, picture gallery and even a GPS ski tracker which will tell you how far you’ve skied during the day. The app is available for android and iPhone via Google Play and the App Store.
