Samhain’s roots lie deep in the mists of history — in Ireland. MAL ROGERS investigates
Trim Castle, probably not as the Normans imagined it, but how the Púca Festival 2023 did (image Tourism Ireland)OVERLOOKING the plains of Meath, one mile east of Athboy, Tlachtga holds a central place in the story of Halloween. Known locally as the Hill of Ward after a 17th century landowner.
Tlachtga was the religious centre of the Druids. It was here that the High Kings of ancient times turned for their religious practices. And this, it is claimed, is the birthplace of a festival today celebrated throughout the world, known today as Halloween. Originally it was called Samhain, probably derived from the words ‘meaning end of summer’.
With the onset of winter Tlachtga became the focus of the Great Fire Festival. To mark this passage of the seasons, The Púca Festival, which runs October 31 to November 3, holds an event called the Lighting of the Samhain Fire at Fair Green. As the sun dips below the horizon, the green will come alive with the ceremonial lighting of the Samhain Fire. This sort of thing has been going on for the thick end of five thousand years.
The flames will symbolically link the landscapes of Tlachtga, Tara (the site of the High Kings of Ireland), Loughcrew, Tailteann, and Uisneach — all utterly fascinating sites in Ireland’s Ancient East.
The Púca Great Fire is a public event and tickets are not required — just as they wouldn’t have been needed 5,000 years ago when the event would already have been going strong.
The fire demons of the Pyro Collective at the Púca Festival (image Tourism Ireland)In the beginning
THE ORIGINS of the Samhain bonfire date back millennia in Ireland. With the harvest in, Samhain Eve, the last day of the year became a huge celebration. It would be fair to say that today's Halloween has probably borrowed from several European cultures — what we do know for certain is that the festival was going strong in Ireland for millennia.
The people already living in Ireland would have regarded the Celts, who only made their presence felt around 500BC, as Johnny-come-latelys (or maybe Seanie-come-latelys).
The exact origins of the Celtic era are still the subject of much debate, but whatever their beginnings they were a people who were endlessly inventive. Never ones to turn down a good party, the Celts added their own slant to the festival of Samhain.
The great fires continued to burn, with tempting feasts laid out so that the ghosts, the Undead, would find a welcome in Ireland. We also know that carousing, licentiousness and excessive behaviour in Neolithic times played a part in proceedings. All sorts, really. For our ancestors, this was a date to give it large, to party on down. You just had to mind how you went because you could encounter a member of the Undead community.
Ghost stories will be part of the festival (Wikimedia)Keep that noise down!
WITH THE arrival of the Christians, the excessive revelry was toned down a bit. In time-honoured tradition the religious blow-ins hijacked the day. But they had to be careful, not remove all of the Old Ways.
By the 8th century Pope Gregory III had designated November 1 as a time to honour all saints. Soon, All Saints Day incorporated some of the traditions of Samhain — the early Christians weren’t silly and knew a thing or two about converting.
The evening before was now known as All Hallows Eve, later Halloween.
But the pagan customs lingered on, unchanged by Christianity (or commercialism) until well into the 20th century, and indeed beyond in some outposts.
Irish and Scottish immigrants took many Halloween customs to North America in the 19th century, and then through American influence Halloween had spread to other countries by the late 20th and early 21st century.
The count appears
FIRST Christianity then commercialism hijacked the day. But even in the latter, the Irish lent a hand. Bats, black cats & witches have little to do directly with the Vigil of Samhain. But they've largely been inspired by Dubliner Bram Stoker, a man very familiar with the Irish legends of the undead walking the Earth. He learned these tales from his mammy, originally from the west of Ireland
He incorporated this element of Irish folklore into his story of Dracula. The symbols were subsequently purloined by practitioners of the Occult, then pressed into service by commercialism, including bats, steaming cauldrons, witches, black cats, witches and extravagantly-fanged fiends with capes.
The Púca Festival, Procession, Trim, Co Meath in 2023 (Image by Tourism Ireland)The Púca Festival
THE PÚCA Festival takes place across the towns of Trim and Athboy in County Meath, in Ireland’s Ancient East. It lasts October 31 until November 3.
Each Samhain, the festival celebrates the ancient traditions of this genuinely spooky time of the year.
Strange and mischievous creatures emerge from the chasm of space and time, in that chilling place between the living and the Undead.
The Hill of Ward is a focus with it Great Fire, and nearby the heritage town of Trim dominated by a towering Norman fortress — which be spectacularly illuminated during the festival — will also be trick-or-treating.
By the way, ‘trick-or-treating’ is not necessarily something the original inhabitants of Trim Castle would have gone in for. This phenomenon arrived in these islands in the 21st century.
But going back centuries in Ireland and Scotland, ‘guising’ was long a popular part of celebrations — dressing up as spooky things. It has certainly been recorded as early as the 16th century. It was a form of protection in case you came across tempestuous spirits wandering about. What better disguise than looking like a ghoul yourself?
So if you’re preparing to go to Púca, maybe pack a few extra white sheets, or a few masks.
During the festival guided walking tours of the Hill of Ward and Trim Castel are available. You’ll get the whole lowdown on the area, its mythology, folklore and much more.
There will also be various events in locations in both Trim and Athboy so you can involve yourself in immersive games, storytelling, workshop and talks. These experiences should bring you — all being well — on a spirited journey through time to experience the Home of Halloween in Ireland’s Ancient East
The entertainment festival
PÚCA will comprise four days and four nights of music, myth, food, folklore, fire, feasting and merriment with a range of events on offer. In addition to the traditional ceremonies, celebrations, and offerings across Trim and Athboy.
Confirmed acts include Bell X1, The High Kings, Dermot Whelan, Panti Bliss, Mary Coughlan, Deirdre O’Kane, Neil Delamere, The Dirt Birds, Davina Devine, Tom Dunne, Fiachna O’Braonáin & Alan Connor, Emma Langford, Ruaile Buaile, Qween and Dublin Gospel Choir, The Classic Beatles and The Hans Zimmer Experience. More musical, comedy, storytelling and folklore acts will be announced shortly. Events will take place across various venues in Trim and Athboy.
A northern Halloween – in Derry
Derry has established itself as a key destination for Halloween revellers.
This year Derry Halloween runs October 28-31. Parades, gigs, pyrotechnics, music and street celebrations will be featured on each of the four nights.
There is also the Walled City Trail where you can find out more about the history (they have plenty hereabouts), the folklore, and heritage of Derry.
Meanwhile the story of Halloween will be brought to life through illumination, aerial performance, song, music and dance.
The Carnival Parade along Queen’s Quay — begins 7pm on October 31— involves hundreds of local performers from schools, clubs and groups right across the City and District. Organised by the North West Carnival Initiative, the Carnival Parade’s performers will present “a fearsome display of magic and mayhem” according to the organisers.
The pageant culminates in the Festival Finale’s fireworks display across the River Foyle.
For more details: Halloween in Derry
