EPHESUS
A recent newcomer to the UNESCO World Heritage list, the famed city of Ephesus - known for its wealth of Roman baths, aqueducts, temples, statues and monuments - does not disappoint. Roughly an hour from the centre of Izmir, it’s a jawdropping testament to the Hellenic and Roman eras (and in its heyday was home to a population of 200,000 people) dating back to 6000BC.
The whole site can be done on foot with highlights along the way including the awesome Great Theatre (capacity 24,000), the Library of Celsus and the Temple of Hadrian (only a section has survived). Bring water and don’t forget a hat and suncream - there isn’t much shade once you set off and you don’t want the oppressive Turkish summer sun to ruin the ruins for you.
If you want to swot up some more, pay a visit to the Ephesus archaeological Museum in Selçuk, it charges a small entry fee and is filled with everything from the smaller end of the scale (beautiful and ornate ancient coins and jewellery) to the supersize finds from the nearby Ephesus excavation site. Its best-known exhibit is the otherworldly and eerie statue of the goddess Artemis retrieved from the temple in Ephesus.
IZMIR CITY
8500 years of history, 629km of coastline and 300 sunny days a year, plus a young population (average age 34) who are as warm as the climate. Izmir is a modern city in look, feel and attitude. It’s perhaps not as well known as some of Turkey’s other hotspots, but makes a brilliant base to explore what the west of the country has to offer. We used the central Hilton Izmir (mostly used by business travellers) as a base.
A short walk away is the kordon (the city’s long waterfront promenade where you’ll see dozens of fisherman patiently waiting for a catch around sundown). The central point is the clock tower in Konack Square (pictured), from where you can explore the Agora but Kemeraltı is the centre of trade. Kemeraltı is an open air and covered bazaar (the fare on offer is mainly food, jewellery, carpets, crockery and souvenirs). Stop for a coffee break at one of the historic cafès in the centre of Kemeraltı.
Turkish coffee is an acquired taste, but the tea, served in traditional glass cups is delicious and refreshing. Wander the arcades of the bazaar where traditional dress, jars of pickled vegetables and every type of herb and spice imaginable are on sale. Some of the offerings are touristy and tacky but it’s colourful, full of energy and great fun to explore.
For an amazing view and delicious French and Mediterranean food take the lift up top of Asansör Restaurant in the city’s small Jewish quarter, and catch Izmir’s spectacular sunsets.
The sleepy hillside village of SirinceSIRINCE
Nothing else in Izmir felt quite so untouched, so unspoilt and so authentic as the tiny, lopsided hillside town of Sirince. From small shopfronts adorned in handmade tapestries and the region’s famous felt textiles to flower covered doorways in every shade of washed out pastel, it feels like you are wandering through an Instagram dream.
Small as it might be, Sirince is home to the unmissable Arşipel Restaurant restaurant serving local Turkish food including mouthwatering Imam (stuffed aubergine), with local wines (Turkish wine is excellent, you’ve just never heard of it because they don’t export). If you want some ramshackle romance, Arşipel they offer simply decorated lodgings reminiscent of the setting of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Hearing the regular and haunting calls to prayer echo from the local mosque in this traditional town really makes you feel like you have travelled back in time.
ALACATI
Bustling and picture book pretty, Alactai is a wanderer’s dream with blooming geraniums and begonias lining the streets full of restaurants, cafes, ice cream parlours and shops to peruse.
At high season it gets pretty packed so if you need to escape then head to the beach to make the most of the crystal clear Aegean waters (or take advantage of the ideal kiteboarding/windsurfing conditions). For a bit of luxury, Alacati Beach Resort is a super-chilled, super cool hotel where you can relax and be served drinks on the sand. At the nearby marina, see how the other half (the yacht-owning half that is) live. You can even rub shoulders with a few at the upmarket Sipari Restaurant where the speciality (unsurprisingly) is freshly caught seafood served overlooking the sea.
GETTING THERE
Expedia is offering seven night holidays to Izmir staying at the 5* Hilton Izmir from £631 per person. Price is based on flights departing from London with Lufthansa Airlines on Thursday 20th August 2015. For more see www.goturkey.com or www.izka.org.tr. To book go to www.expedia.co.uk
