Lord of the Dance
A majestic bolthole in Enniskerry
Travel Ireland

A majestic bolthole in Enniskerry

Tony Clayton-Lea checks in, and checks out, one of Ireland’s top hotels — Powerscourt in Co. Wicklow

FRONT OF HOUSE Powerscourt's main lobby

First Impressions

Inevitably, for a 5-star destination that resides on about 1,000 acres and is surrounded by the Wicklow Mountains (the pointy Sugarloaf can be seen looking at you from various viewpoints in the hotel), this place is as swanky and luxurious as you can imagine. The entrance is through a gate just about wide enough for a car (no coaches here!) and as you drive down to the hotel car parking area, you can’t but be impressed by the lush landscaped green areas. Immediately after you enter via the revolving doors you arrive at a smart check-in area that opens onto a broad swathe of a lobby that promptly seduces you for the duration of your stay. Pop out into the hotel’s garden area, swoon at the Palladian-style architecture, and play a game of chess with human-size pieces.

Rooms

There are almost 200 rooms, and to say that even the smallest is generously proportioned is an understatement. We had booked a classic deluxe king room but as we checked in we received an upgrade to a classic king suite. Aside from the obvious extra level of ridiculous luxury that an upgrade gives you, we like it when any hotel does this. The upgrade may have been caused by our mid-week booking – weekends tend to be much busier – but it’s a no-brainer marketing strategy, it quickly generates goodwill from the customer, it enhances the value-for-money aesthetic, and it makes you think positively about re-booking. The room? Divine, darling, simply divine.

Food/Drink

The lounge/bar area is an airy, bright space for an afternoon cocktail or glass of wine. Breakfast is in the gorgeous Sika Restaurant, the hotel’s premier dining spot with great views of the mountains. We decided, however, to book dinner on one of our two nights in the hotel’s newly-opened Sally Gap Restaurant. The difference in prices between this lovely spot and Sika is significant, however, for those on a less-than-spendthrift budget. For the second night, we booked dinner in nearby Johnny Fox’s Pub, which is something of an institution (and a must-visit if you’re not familiar with it). At the time of staying at Powerscourt, its on-site pub, McGill’s, was being completely refurbished, so the lounge acted as a very decent substitute.

Spa/Leisure

I’m lucky to say that through the years I have been to more than several 5-star (and some superb 4-star) hotels in Ireland, and the spa/leisure areas in Powerscourt are the best I’ve experienced. I booked a massage (for a troublesome tendon issue) and walked away feeling lighter than a proverbial feather; I stepped into the pool/spa experience areas and drifted between the gently rippling jacuzzi, the sweat-inducing sauna and the (literally) breathtaking steam room. Again, because it was mid-week there were very few people here, so it almost felt that the areas were yours. Two words? Loved it.

Things To Do/See

Very decent options for activities include the stunning on-site golf course (of which I didn’t partake – I can barely hit the air with my fist, let alone a golf ball with a piece of metal), the splendid Powerscourt House and Gardens, the nearby Powerscourt Waterfall and river walk, and cycling. The best bet for whiling away an hour or two indoors if the weather is cold and/or wet? Take a tour and/or tasting experience of Powerscourt Distillery (which recently nabbed a Best Visitor Attraction award) and learn all about how their Fercullen malt and pot still whiskeys are made. What’s that smell and who is it for? It’s nectar and it’s for the Gods!

Overall

Look, the only thing you have to be concerned about is your bank balance. I can speak only for myself, of course, but Powerscourt Hotel isn’t the type of place that I could afford to stay in on a regular basis. And yet you pay your money and you take your choice, don’t you, so if you want to cut corners here and there then booking a room (even for mid-week, when the prices aren’t as gasp-inducing) isn’t outside the realms of possibility. And why ever not? This posh gaff is something of a stunner. Treat yourself. Spoil yourself. Bring a friend.

Powerscourt Hotel Resort & Spa, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow. www.powerscourthotel.com