PERHAPS given its proximity and unique relationship with the UK, Irish fashion designers continue to shine at London’s Fashion Week.
From the new to the established, Irish talent is definitely finding its niche at one of the world’s biggest fashion industry showcases and as the dust settles on another impressive week for fashion in the capital, here are my key shows:
As one giant of Irish fashion, John Rocha, bowed off the fashion week schedule this month another returned. Paul Costelloe rejoined LFW this season, presenting a retro-inspired catwalk show at Simpson’s in the Stand. Basing his silhouette on the empire line, his mini-dresses featured an innovative play on volumes and explorations in colour, resulting in a fresh, youthful and above all highly-wearable collection.
The use of lavish Italian floral jacquards added a depth to the deceptive simplicity of cut while tailored cropped jackets and trench coats illustrated Costelloe’s mastery of the line. This collection sees a more coherent and contemporary Costello, playing to his strengths but in a new and unexpected direction.
From one industry veteran to a newly emerging talent, Danielle Romeril presented on the official schedule for the first time. A graduate of Limerick School of Art and Design, Romeril completed an MA at London’s prestigious Royal College of Art and this astute training deeply informs her concept-driven clothing.
Danielle Romeril presented her new collection on the official schedule for the first timeStarting her label in 2012 she has since been making strong headway in the industry and currently receives support from the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN sponsorship platform. Instead of a catwalk, her presentation consisted of a designed set evoking an off grid camping site set in the basement of Somerset House.
Her main themes promoted a new interpretation of sustainability and never has it looked so sharp. Using khaki and army green as a focal base she has produced her most ambitious collection to date, which was wearable and functional. With unique combinations of lazer-cut materials standout touches included large 3D pockets in lace or backpacks.
Despite the loss of John Rocha from the show schedule it seems his unique aesthetic and assured approach to fashion design was still present, namely in the collection presented by his daughter Simone. Her fashion sensibility seems contained in a Rocha vacuum, naturally enough, but this only serves to heighten her popularity. Each season reveals a development of her core brand values which evoke a slightly off-kilter woman, who is equally happy dressing up as she is on a rural hike.
Rocha’s repetitious use of signature silhouettes and motifs beguile the viewer and draws them into her idiosyncratic fashion world. And with worldwide sales and distribution growing, it’s working. The designers Spring Summer 2015 collection further revisits her main themes - for example her colour palette continues to focus on black and muted nudes.
Simone Rocha is one of the more interesting designers that showcased their collection at London Fashion WeekWhen a vibrant red surfaced unexpectedly it featured as an embellishment on a nude background or in an exaggerated form appliqued on a floral print. Her androgynous silhouette, exaggerated with hyper pockets illustrates her considered construction of garments, while lengths rarely left the knee as edges were scalloped or trimmed with fur.
Styling is always vital for Rocha and accessories provided an accent on the catwalk, with handbags – with edges that were also scalloped or trimmed with the obligatory fur, as well as transparent lace gloves all reinforcing her DNA. The brand’s strategic move into footwear was inspired too as Rocha’s brogues now compete with the likes of Prada and Stella McCartney in the statement stakes. This season her footwear was again an integral component to the collection, whether fur trimmed or appliqued.
Simone Rocha is not only one of the most interesting designers to ever come out of Ireland, continuing her father’s legacy, she is also one of the more interesting designers that showed at London Fashion Week.
From top to toe Rocha creates the mise-en-scéne of the catwalk, in which every aspect is vital but most importantly is pushing fashion in new directions which still satisfy the consumer.
Gemma A Williams is a Tipperary-born fashion curator and writer currently based in London. Her book Fashion China published by Thames & Hudson will be out next March. Follow her on @Gemmacurates
